Monday, March 22, 2010

Washing with oil is a good idea

First off, I want to add to my favorites list a little bit. One of my favorite methods of cleansing is with oil. Sounds backwards, doesn't it? Once you hear exactly how it works you'll be wondering why all cleansers aren't oil based. Oil and Water... more like Oil vs. Water. They don't get along very well, those two. But what's clogging up your pores and making your skin shiny and slick? It's a natural oil (ok so technically it's a liquid wax) that our skin produces called sebum.

Oil attracts oil. Oil based cleansers have the power to dissolve the hardened oil/wax/sebum in your pores and pull it up to the surface of your skin just like a magnet or a magical vacuum cleaner. Then, if you get an oil-based cleanser that is water soluble, you can add water and rinse. The key to using an oil cleanser is applying it to DRY skin so that the oil & water don't interact until after the oil is dissolved & pulled to the surface. If you have clogged pores or you wear sunscreen or makeup, this is the way to go. And best of all, it's easy to make your very own oil based cleanser.

You can take any oil and make it into an oil cleanser. Let's talk about which oils work best on which skin types, shall we?
Dry skin: Almond oil (sweet almond), Avocado oil, Hazelnut oil
Normal/Combination skin: Olive oil, Grapeseed oil
Oily skin: Sunflower oil, Jojoba oil

You can do a combination of oils or stick with just one, and you can add more exotic oils or oil based goodies like vitamin E. Just remember that this will get rinsed off so you might not want to get too carried away with expensive ingredients. You can also add a few drops of fragrance or essential oils to make it smell appealing. Once you've picked your oil or oils, you'll add some Cromollient SCE at about a 10% concentration. You can adjust the percentage to be more cleansing (use more cromollient) or less (less cromollient) but be sure to write down your recipe so that you can replicate or tweak it.

Oil cleansers are fantastic a few times per week as a deep cleanser, or used at night to remove makeup & SPF. I find that oil based cleansers can be drying if used every day, so I like to alternate them with my regular cleanser. If the DIY project doesn't sound appealing to you, there are some commercially available oil cleansers out there. My favorites are Being True Restoring Deep Cleanser and Fancl Mild Cleansing Oil.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Favorites: The cleanser edition


I have had a shocking number of clients over the years tell me that they don't use a cleanser, or even a bar of soap, to wash their face. "Just water." I think it was way back in middle school chemistry when I learned that water is a very ineffective cleansing agent. Let's explore the wonderful purification ritual that is cleansing. 

The surface of our skin, called the acid mantle (a combination of sweat, oil, and other goodies) is water and bacteria resistant. Combine our skin's natural tendency to repel water and water's natural surface tension, and you have a recipe for poor cleansing conditions. If that went in one ear and out the other, let me put it simply: you need a cleanser. That said, there are a few things to keep in mind when dealing with cleanser... If a cleanser works too well it can strip skin's natural moisture leaving it tight, itchy, dry, shiny, and too "squeaky clean". If it doesn't work well enough it can leave your skin feeling sticky, greasy, and as unwashed as before you started.


I personally prefer to avoid sulfates (sodium lauryl, sodium laureth) in my cleansers, so all of my favorite cleansers are sulfate-free. Although I don't subscribe to the idea that cleanser can also be a treatment product for skin conditions, I do think it's best to get a cleanser suited to your skin type.



If you've got a cleanser that you like already, yay! The main thing that a cleanser should do is effectively cleanse without stripping the skin's natural moisture. There's a whole mess of people out there using Clarisonic brushes to apply their cleanser, which are sort of like a big, soft Sonicare toothbrush for your face. I don't have one so I can't speak about how well they work, but from what I hear they can spin an average cleanser into a 24kt gold cleanser. They cost almost as much as a small island nation, but it sounds kinda worth it.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens...

I thought I'd post a few of my favorite things. Every time I think of those words I hear Julie Andrews singing that song and picture her twirling around on top of an alp. So anyone that knows me might be thinking "What does cheese have to do with skin care?" but don't worry I won't wax poetic over the wonders of cheese... This is a skin blog for goodness sake. No, these favorites are all skin-related, I promise I'll stay on topic.

Sunscreen. I have so many clients ask me "Do you wear sunscreen every day?". Honestly, people! This kind of talk boggles the mind. Of course I wear sunscreen every day. Sun is the main cause of aging, not to mention skin cancer. Skin cancer is just like any other cancer... I hate to break it to you, but it can be deadly.

The world of sunscreen can be a very confusing place.
There are 2 types of sun protection: physical and chemical. Physical sun blocks come from zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These work by providing a physical barrier against UV rays, like a mirror they reflect the sun's rays (block). Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays before they reach the skin (screen).

There are pros and cons to either type of sunscreen, physical blocks tend to be thick and heavy, with a whitish cast on the skin. Chemical blocks tend to smell funky, have an sticky or oily feel, and sorting out which ingredients work can be seriously frustrating. So here are a few of my favorite sunscreens for your enjoyment.

Epicuren Discovery Zinc Oxide SPF 20
The Epicuren is my absolute favorite of all time, hands down. I use it as my day cream in humid climates or during the summer, otherwise I apply a day cream first and apply the Epicuren on top. The texture is very light, the formula is not sticky or greasy and it smells very faintly like rose. This is a strictly physical sunblock.

SkinCeuticals Daily Sun Defense SPF 20
Another great one, blending chemical & physical to provide a great level of UVA protection (essential for preventing age spots and wrinkles). This one is moisturizing so it can be used alone or if you're dry you can apply moisturizer first. I also like the new SPF 15 from this brand, it's a chemical sunscreen and it offers even better UVA protection.
La Roche Posay Anthelios SX 15 Moisturizing Cream
Anthelios SX is perfect if you tend to have dry skin, and it's super convenient to have a built-in moisturizer so a great option for men or busy moms or professionals. Very good UVA protection (see above).


Bioderma Photoderm MAX Lait SPF 50+
Bioderma is the gold standard for UVA protection. If you are prone to brown spots this one will work like nothing else. It's great age prevention, but the texture is not as pleasant (sticky, heavy) for everyday use.




If you have any questions regarding sunscreen, I will do my best to help you sort it all out.

Next up: Antioxidants! I love them, and I think everyone should use a topical antioxidant product. Antioxidants neutralize free radical damage caused by the sun & environment, and protect against premature aging. What does that mean, you ask? The sun and other environmental aggressors can reprogram the DNA in your dermis, kind of like a computer virus. Antioxidants are sort of like antivirus software.

There are lots of antioxidant options and some work better than others, especially when we're talking topical. My favorites are Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) which is a-freaking-mazing and Coffeeberry extract which is less temperamental and has a better shelf life. There are plenty of other options out there, but in my experience these ones yield the best results when used topically. It's a fantastic idea to take an oral antioxidant supplement, too (no, your morning coffee doesn't count). I'll name off my favorite products in both topical and oral formulas...

Topical antioxidant products:
PSF Pure Skin Formulations Vitamin C Serum
One thing about Vitamin C serums, the ones that work are painfully expensive. At $46 this one is affordable and effective.
Garden of Wisdom Summer Serum
A light-textured and very concentrated Coffeeberry serum. I use this one all year long.
IS Clinical Pro Heal Serum
Serious treatment for cystic acne, redness, rosacea, scarring, inflamed skin, and aging. If you want results for just about any skin condition, here it is folks... Results in a bottle.

Oral Antioxidant products:
Jarrow Antioxidant Optimizer
This blends all of my favorite antioxidants, and it's affordable. It's a staple in my medicine cabinet.
New Chapter Supercritical Omega 7
My favorite oil, Sea Buckthorn, stars in this oil-soluble omega fatty acid supplement that helps repair skin from the inside out.

Trust me, I have plenty of other favorites to tell you about... But that should keep you busy for a while!

Skin Q&A

My friends call me the skincyclopedia, because when skin is the topic I have the experience, knowledge, and intuition to address any skin situation with a well rounded treatment approach (and solid reasoning to back it up). I have been a professional esthetician for over 11 years and skin, actually the body as a whole, is my life's main focus. I want you to have vibrantly healthy skin and a happy life. The aim of this blog is to offer effective advice and support on your journey to great skin.

Feel free to post questions- or just describe your skin to me and include your current regimen.