Monday, June 14, 2010

Got breakouts? Developing an effective daily regimen for acne

I was going to continue my focus on inflammation, but acne is a complex condition and it deserves a multi-faceted plan of attack. As I said in my last post, there are different grades of acne, different grades will respond to different products and types of treatment. I'm going to throw some recommendations out there and explain how they work, and let you choose. Some experimentation may be required to find the products that give the best results for your skin, but I've taken out most of the guesswork. I'm happy to answer questions, if you have any
                                                             
Cleansers:

SkinCeuticals Clarifying Cleanser- This cleanser exfoliates, preventing buildup of dead skin cells and controlling clogged pores. I find that it works best on blackheads and small, non-inflamed bumps (that's a technical term, right?).

Ilike Grapeseed Cleansing Milk- A milky, oil-based cleanser to help dissolve oil & makeup, with active ingredients that decrease inflammation & redness.

Osea Ocean Cleanser- Truly my favorite cleanser EVER. It gets off every trace of oil & makeup, and leaves skin super soft and comfortable. A great daily cleanser for all acne situations.

SkinScript Glycolic Cleanser- This is a turbocharged AHA cleanser, at 17% glycolic acid it's more like a peel than a cleanser. Best for grades 3 & 4. You'll need a separate makeup remover because this sucker is way too strong to use around the eyes. I'd suggest alternating this cleanser with the Ilike Grapeseed or Osea Ocean Cleanser, so as not to over-exfoliate. It's always important to give your skin time to rest & rebuild itself.

Epicuren Medicated Acne Cleanser- Once again, Epicuren created a product that I absolutely adore. One of my all time favorites for acne, it's gentle but effective. Mildly exfoliating, with the silkiest texture.


Toners:

True Clarifying Tonic- This sometimes doubles as my night time cleanser when I'm feeling particularly lazy. It's great for swiping off sweat ^& grime after the gym if you don't have time for a shower right away. It contains calming ingredients and tea tree to prevent bacteria.

Avene Thermal Spring Water Spray- For those of you that just don't "get" toner, this is your thing. A super easy spray that calms & heals the skin. Just spray it on and you're good to go.

GM Collin Deep Cleansing Solution- Sort of a hybrid between a cleanser & a toner. This contains an active ingredient that is similar to Benzoyl Peroxide (which is very effective) without being harmful. Put it on after cleansing, leave it on for a minute & rinse.
                     
Leave on treatments:

True Purifying Therapeutic Mask- Put a thick layer of this mask on the spot at night before bed and you will wake up with a much smaller, more manageable pimple.

Calendula CO2- I like to put this on all over my face at night to calm inflammation. It is BRIGHT orange so just use a tiny bit, and don't use your best sheets... Cause they will get stained. Usually I'll put a thin layer on, then use a cool compress to remove the excess. If your breakouts are grade 3 or 4, throbbing & inflamed, this is the best thing ever. 

Acne Gel 1 OuncesNelson's Acne Gel- A tiny bit of this on the spot during the day= perfect treatment for inflamed acne to keep it under control. Also nice around the jawline as a zone-treatment for hormonal acne.

Diacneal- And now enter the big guns. This is the best, strongest over-the-counter acne treatment I've ever tried. It's no joke. Very strong retinaldehyde & AHA treatment. A little goes a long way. Use it at night, 4-6 nights per week all over to treat stubborn grade 3 & 4 acne.
IS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum Advance Plus
Tazorac (prescription, discuss with your dermatologist before using)- Now here's the thing about Tazorac: be prepared to peel like a molting snake. Yes. For weeks. Use it at night only, always slather on a rich moisturizer first and apply a little Tazorac on top (avoid eyes & lips), and skip a night or two a week to give your skin breathing time. During your molting period you'll want to carry a tube of moisturizer with you and apply it several times per day. You'll need this stuff under your moisturizer in the day time, too.


IS Clinical Pro Heal Advance + Serum- Use this every morning under your moisturizer to help prevent inflammation and breakouts, and treat acne scarring. This serum is god damn amazing.


Moisture & SPF:

Osea Atmosphere Protection Cream- My favorite all-around moisturizer of all time. Super light, super gentle, just awesome.

SkinCeuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50- A mineral-based light fluid sunscreen. 

Somme Double Defense- A quick-absorbing, nice light textured combo moisturizer + SPF.


Other good stuff:

Astara Golden Flame Hydration Mask 2ozOsea Red Algae Mask- Use it a few times a week to decongest & detoxify clogged pores and breakout prone skin.

Astara Golden Flame Mask- Use it overnight once a week to calm & soothe irritated and inflamed skin. It's very hydrating and healing.

Hepar Sulphuris Calcareum- Homeopathy works. This stuff is a total godsend for inflammatory acne conditions. Just take a few sugar pellets under your tongue, sit back and watch the magic happen.