Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Why get old if you don't have to Part Deux

Now that you've figured out your options, and discussed them with your esthetician, let's talk about what to do on a daily basis to improve your skin. If you do just treatments, you'll see great results, and if you use just the following products you'll see great results. But if you want to see better than great, if you really want to dream BIG then do both. They really, truly go hand in hand. I think a series of microdermabrasion or chemical peels with LED light therapy, with regular follow ups, and the use of super powerful products will give you Results with a capital R. That is how I do it, personally and professionally.

So here goes nothing, let the big dreaming commence. Let's start with cleansers. A cleanser doesn't have to be just a way to cleanse the skin, it can also infuse nutrition and antioxidants, and exfoliate the skin. It's not a miracle in and of itself. It's just that whatever touches your skin should be affecting positive change. Why bother using it if it isn't?

Cleansers:

IS Clinical Cleansing Complex 6 oziS Clinical Cleansing Complex is a resurfacing, exfoliating, deep cleanser. If you have the double trouble of acne and wrinkles, get this cleanser and never look back. If you have normal/combo/oily skin, this is the one for you.

Osea - Ocean CleanserOsea Ocean Cleanser is remineralizing and filled with firming proteins. It smells so awesome that everyone will want to use it, but works best for combo/dehydrated/slightly dry skin.

Hylunia Facial Cleansing Lotion awesome for sensitive, dry, aging skin. It cleanses without drying, and infuses skin with a ton of Hyaluronic Acid to plump wrinkles and rehydrate.

And now a little hint on toners, they can be almost as amazing as serum, full of active ingredients and very hydrating. Always avoid toners containing grain or SD alcohol, they will the skin and remove the protective mantle, which contributes to premature aging.

Toners:

Osea - Sea Vitamin Anti-Aging Boost - 4 ozBioelements Power Peptide 6 fl oz.Osea Sea Vitamin Boost is a pomegranate and red wine antioxidant treatment with ultra firming undaria algae. Spray it on throughout the day to hydrate or swipe it on with a cotton round after cleansing for a more deep cleansing rinse approach.

Bioelements Power Peptide is a collagen stimulating treatment in spray form. It's not technically a toner, but not technically anything else, so I say why not use it as one? The more collagen stimulating, the better!

Natura Bisse The Cure Hydro-Gel TonerRevision Skincare Exfoliating Facial Rinse is one way to go, if you want to double task your exfoliating & toning. This is mild enough for everyday use, with Glycolic and Salicylic acids to refine and stimulate cell turnover. Just swipe it on after cleansing.

Natura Bisse The Cure Hydro-Gel Toner is just plain ooey gooey yumminess. Super hydrating gel-textured deep cleansing toner. Yum yum yum for the dry skinned folks. For a cheaper thrill, try Hylunia Revitalizing Toner.

Exfoliants:

iS Clinical Active Serum is AWESOME! Yes, it's worth yelling about. It's so good I want to rent a loudspeaker and run around town telling everyone how great it is. It works like a charm, it's light as a feather, it's easy, it's fun, everyone's doing it and so should you. If you're sensitive or recovering from Chemotherapy or suffering from Rosacea or dermatitis, get the PolyVitamin Serum instead.

Cellex-C Speed Peel Facial Gel, 90 mlCellex C Speed Peel is something I've talked about in previous installments of Skincyclopedia. I can't get enough of this stuff. I love it. It's the coolest exfoliating gommage treatment ever invented. It's all stimulating and cool and minty and then it's all whoa, my skin is so smoooooooth. It is incredible and amazing and every other really good adjective. It's a weekly wunderkind.

I know it seems like I should post more options, but the iS Clinical just blows everything else out of the water so just get some and you will like it I promise. Next up, the good stuff! Serums are the most concentrated products that you'll use at home. The active ingredient percentage is higher, and the aim is more focused on providing results than a nice scent or texture.

Serums:

iS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum Advance+iS Clinical Pro Heal Serum Advance +. Oh yeah? I know I mention iS Clinical a lot. Take it up with them, not me. If they would stop making such fabulous products then I'd stop talking about how great they are. But they rock. Hard. So I will continue to tell you to buy it and if you do, you will thank me. Pro Heal is my favey fave BFF serum. It's more about healing, rebuilding, stimulating growth. It's great for sensitive & acne prone skin. They also make Super Serum Advance +, which is more about the firming, sun damage, wrinkle smoothing action. They both rule, the Super Serum is more for severely aged skin that can handle whatever you throw at it (don't throw things at your skin, be nice). They also (God, when will they stop being so awesome, it's hard to keep up) make a magic potion called Youth Complex which is like.... heaven.... in a very expensive bottle.

Oxygen Pur serum is all about the glow. That glow you had when you were 17, after a day of rollerskating and eating cotton candy and laughing and jumping rope and all that stuff you don't have time for. If you have like 5 seconds, you can get that glow back. Why wear foundation, blush, and concealer when you can just wear this and look twelve again?

GM Collin H50 Therapy Serum all Skin Type 1ozGM Collin H50 Therapy Serum this is what you want if you're 50+ or experiencing early menopause.This is everything your skin needs to bounce back after the hormone levels go south. If you use this at night, and one of the iS Clinical serums in the morning, you will be an unstoppable force of nature. While you're at it, use the H50 Therapy Cream. Don't forget to look carefully at the label, because they make one for DRY skin which literally has the texture of butter and is way too rich for most of us, and then a lighter formula for normal/oily/combo skin.

                                              Avene RetrinalAvene Retrinal 0.1% Cream, 1 ounce Package serum is turbocharged retinol on crack. It's super effective for stimulating cell turnover and firming and retexturizing your skin. I wouldn't use this with the Active Serum, it's redundant and possibly like, crazy. If you're crazy and your skin can handle crazy, then give it a whirl. Use the Retrinal at night & Active Serum during the day. If you want to use the strongest OTC retinol product available, this is IT. Use responsibly, and only at night, and only if you use SPF religiously during the day.Avene Retrinal

Cosmedix Refine 4% is a slightly more forgiving retinol treatment. Choose this one over the Retrinal for sensitive skin, or try this first & work your way up to the Retrinal over time.

Moisturizers:

Moisturizers don't have to be just hydrating. Stop listening to Olay. They are full of crap, and so are their products. Hydration is important, but RESULTS are way more important, that's what we're aiming for and that's why we're forking over our money. Not because of some marketing campaign that we are forced to endure between segments of Glee. I am well versed in the best, most effective moisturizers out there for anti-aging and now I get to share my savant-like depth of knowledge with you! Yay!

GM Collin AGE Total Defense is the most radically effective anti-aging moisturizer for sun damage and those of us under 50. This stuff has an epic, almost ridiculous amount of peptides and antioxidants. The texture is a tiny bit sticky, but if you follow my standard advice of applying moisturizer to damp skin you'll be fine. I use this at night atop my Retrinal. I would SO bathe in this magic potion.

Osea - Advanced Protection CreamOsea Advanced Protection Cream. Amen. Of the first three ingredients, two are super active firmers. DPHP and Undaria Algae.  The texture is a bit rich, but it absorbs very easily and doesn't leave skin sticky or greasy. I recommend it for dry, dehydrated, aging skin (age range 30-45ish).

Sanitas PeptiDerm Moisturizing Cream is super pricey but the results are so freaking amazing. It's excellent. It's a little lighter than the GM Collin AGE Total Defense, and more focused on firming, less on repairing sun damage and wrinkle reduction. I'd say it's more for all skin types and those that are 40+.

GM Collin H50 Treatment Cream is for hormonally-challenged skin. Generally 50+, but also applicable for laxity resulting from early menopause or hysterectomy. I mentioned it already in the serum section, take a peek. This isn't for everyone, it's specifically to replenish what hormone-depleted skin needs. Men and 20 year olds need not apply.

LightStim Anti-Aging LightWhat else can you do at home to up the ante? You can get your own LED light from LightStim. The Anti Aging light is made for home use, it's a great thing to have! I recommend it over the individual colored units because it's more affordable, less expensive, and it's best to get your professional LED treatments from, you know, a professional. That way results can be monitored and a treatment plan can be structured and tailored for your skin's needs. It's not as strong as the lights used by a professional, but it also won't blind you on accident (which is a plus). LED will stimulate collagen, give you a glow, even out your skin tone, and reduce lines & wrinkles.

NuFace Anti Aging Anti Wrinkle Device, 5 piece kitThere's also the NuFace, which isn't as user-friendly and you have to continually buy the Conductivity Gel, which is $25 per tube. It's a good piece of equipment IF you actually use it. Most people find that it ends up languishing in a drawer, but if you pull it out and use it regularly, it will reward you with results like firm skin and less wrinkles and laxity.

The last thing you should consider is facial exercise. There's a good, cheap, download-able book called Ageless If You Dare. This is a great option for the lines around the mouth, and all it takes is a little time commitment.

Come in for a consultation, a facial with microdermabrasion and LED light therapy, or to get started with your anti-aging regimen. I've got the iS Clinical, Hylunia, and Osea products at my skin studio.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Why get old if you don't have to?

I see so many clients with sun damage, wrinkles, and slack skin who are afraid to dream big. They feel like they've tried everything out there and haven't seen any improvement so they just resign themselves to looking haggard. Let me tell you: you haven't tried everything. I know you've never committed to regular LED light treatment facials, microdermabrasion and excellent home care. You might be using Chanel or even La Mer, or god forbid L'oreal... But you're looking for love in all the wrong places. You might have done a couple laser treatments only to find out that they are NOT a miracle cure. I could have told you that. But trust me, results are out there waiting for you. You can have younger, firmer, smoother skin.

First let's talk about your treatment options. Treatments are like the gym. There is no magic treatment that gives incredible, permanent results from just one treatment. If you could just go to the gym once and look like Jessica Biel forever, who wouldn't sign up for that? I would. But that's not realistic. Sorry. Reality involves commitment and effort, and eventually rewards you with results. Different treatments have different benefits, not every treatment is appropriate for everyone, but you should know what options are out there. Let me break it down for you.

Microdermabrasion: this is all about a deep, focused exfoliation. Crystal microdermabrasion is way more effective than diamond tipped microdermabrasion (also called "crystal free"). This treatment is great for age spots, superficial expression lines, and adult acne. It stimulates collagen production which firms and tightens the skin and refines pores. It's not appropriate for very sensitive skin or rosacea. If you're very prone to pigmentation you'll need to be on a tyrosinase inhibiting home care regimen (this applies to corrective peels, too!) before and after microdermabrasion treatment. The best way to benefit from microdermabrasion is to receive a series of treatments within a short time period. Optimally a series of 4-6 treatments spaced 14 days apart, then maintenance treatments every 6-8 weeks.

Corrective peels: there are a ton of varieties of chemical peels, starring different strengths, different pH, different combinations of acids, and the amount of time a peel is left on is another major variable. Chemical peels range from mild to extremely aggressive. I absolutely recommend seeing a trained, skilled Esthetician for chemical peels and NOT buying them online and performing them on yourself. Trust me on this. I am a big fan of rather aggressive chemical peels for WOW results. For age spots and severe aging, I do TCA peels with tyrosinase inhibitors, for dehydrated and wrinkled skin I prefer a high percentage Lactic acid. For rough texture, acne scarring, and oily aging skin I use a strong Salicylic. There are so many variables with peels that it's hard to give a specific treatment plan without a consultation, but I like a series of peels spaced 10 days apart followed with maintenance treatments every 4-6 weeks. Peels can be more aggressive than microdermabrasion, or less aggressive, for sensitive skin. The results are similar and it depends on the condition of your skin if it's a better option for you.

LED Light Therapy: this is a MUST for anti-aging. The results are progressive, each treatment building on the last. I love it in combination with a peel or microdermabrasion, it works better on excfoliated skin, just like light penetrates better through a clean window than a dirty one. LED works like photosynthesis, stimulating your skin to produce more collagen (firming) and ATP (energizing). The lights that I use at  re:surface decrease inflammation, increase collagen production, refine pores, smooth out wrinkles, even out skin tone, and lighten age spots. Also amazing for acne scarring and rosacea. LED treatments work best as a series of 6-8 spaced 7-10 days apart, followed with monthly maintenance treatments.

Microcurrent: this treatment stimulates muscular contractions, tightening muscles and lifting the skin. It can also be slightly beneficial for collagen production, and it stimulates ATP in the skin as well. I think that it's comparable results-wise with LED light therapy, but it doesn't target age spots or scarring or treat inflammation. If your esthetician offers it, definitely try it. If they offer LED, it's a more broad-spectrum treatment and I'd choose that over microcurrent.

Injectables: there's a lot of variety with injectables, Botox is pretty amazing for the vertical lines just above the center of the brows. It's designed simply to inhibit muscular contractions, so it doesn't firm or fill wrinkles it prevents the expressions that cause expression lines. There is a new filler, Sculptra, that actually stimulates collagen, which is great. It can cause keloid scarring, so it's not for everyone. The fillers that just inflate the skin and then eventually fade away seem like a big waste of money to me. I like it when your body does the work, producing it's own collagen because that looks natural (because it is natural) and it lasts.

Thermage: Thermage is serious business. I don't generally recommend it for the whole face, but for a sagging jawline or that neck/chin/jowl area that is almost impossible to treat without surgery. It's a great tool for that, and if you don't need to go under the knife then don't! The results take a few months to really show up, but they can be pretty miraculous. For the whole face, I much prefer my magical LED lights. Slightly more subtle, but much easier to control the results and far more beneficial for the skin.

Laser: there are a great many different types of laser, but the general theme is trauma. Lasers damage the skin (so does thermage, which melts your collagen and forces your body to produce new collagen) and traumatize it, causing it to have an inflammatory healing reaction. Which leads to more collagen production but also a rather patchy, haphazard healing process. I think that IPL treatments can work very well for redness, but there are other options I like to explore first with my clients. Laser is sort of the anti-LED. LED helps your skin, laser harms your skin, all aiming at the same goal of facilitating collagen production. I prefer LED, personally and professionally.

I'm not going to go into surgical options, if you want to discuss surgery I recommend finding a reputable surgeon and sitting down for a consultation with them. It's just not my area of expertise.

You'll definitely need effective home care products to compliment the treatments, what is on your skin all day long makes such an impact, positive or negative. Why not make it positive? Next installment, we'll discuss my favorite anti-aging products! Stay tuned!

I offer Microdermabrasion, Corrective Peels, and LED Light Therapy at my SW Portland skin studio, re:surface skin. My treatment options include fast, focused treatments and facials including anti-aging products and tools. I look forward to providing you with amazing results

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Silky smooth touchable skin below the neck

Exfoliating and then moisturizing is sort of like taking off your pants before you put on your body lotion. Taking off that layer of dead skin cells helps your skin absorb moisture so much more effectively. It also makes your skin feel super silky smooth and begging to be touched.

First thing you need is a pair of  handy, cheap exfoliating gloves. You can use these with any body cleansing medium from soap to body wash, and they will turbocharge any body scrub. Just be careful, a lot of pressure isn't necessary. Just massage gently and be patient for your results.

Next you'll need an exfoliant. Body scrubs are generally the easiest way to exfoliate your body. I prefer a creamy, non-greasy body scrub with plenty of exfoliating particles. I like sugar & salt because they dissolve easily with water, which is good so you don't clog up your shower drain with walnut particles or jojoba beads. Sugar dissolves more quickly, so you have to work fast, salt is more purifying & detoxifying but it burns like crazy if you've just shaved. It's usually a better idea to shave after exfoliating, because it helps lift and expose the hair so you get a closer shave.

And now for my favorite body exfoliants:

Bella Lucce Exotic Date & Wild Honey Buff, starring turkish coffee, vanilla beans, pomegranate, almond, wild honey, and juicy dates. This creamy scrub delivers an all-natural heavenly vanilla-sandalwood fragrance and a non-drying super deep exfoliation. It goes so well with the Moroccan Incense Massage Oil, used as a body oil after showering. That stuff is is super light and sinks in quickly, and it smells SO GOOD I totally want to bathe in it.
Bella Lucce Exotic Date & Wild Honey Buff






Bella Lucce Avocado & Ootanga Body Scrub, yeah I know... it's the same brand! I can't help it if all of their scrubs are awesome. This one is so rich, luscious, and nourishing it's remarkable. Avocado and watermelon seed oil silkify (oh yeah auto-correct? I think it's a word!) and protect. This one is great during summer, when it's too hot to bother with a body lotion. It leaves the skin smooth, with a perfectly sexy sheen and a yummy fragrance.


Osea Undaria Body Polish takes it to a whole new level. This is super gritty, firming, and packed with EFAs. Antioxidants, polishing pumice, and ultra-firming seaweed combined with an amazing citrusy lavender fragrance means you can have a spa moment in your own shower whenever you want. I love this stuff!!! Finish it off with the Undaria Algae Oil when you get out of the shower. YUM!


Another way to exfoliate the body is an AHA or BHA cream, lotion, or wash. I love the SkinScript Glycolic Wash for super deep cleansing for both the face and body.

I'm a big DIY fan, and there's nothing in the world that's easier than whipping up a good body scrub at home. I like using a mix of butters & oils, plus salt & sugar. Some of my favorite oils for body scrubs: Avocado, Apricot Kernel, Almond, Andiroba, Argan, Virgin Coconut (Garden of Life smells the best, see my last post). For butters I like Mango, Shea, and Cupuacu. I do a water bath, add about half liquid oil and half solid butter together and allow it to melt slowly. Fill a bowl or jar most of the way with salt or sugar or both, then drizzle with the oil blend until it's sort of a paste. I prefer it to be slightly more grains than oil. You can add fragrance oil or essential oils to give it a good scent, and you can add dried powdered herbs and spices... But be careful of cinnamon & paprika/cayenne. They can be way too intense. Also: take it from me, lemongrass is best left out. It can cause serious redness & sensitivity in most people. Homemade body scrubs are a cinch, and they make a good gift.