Friday, June 29, 2012

Summer Summer Summertime!

Here in Portland at the end of June, temperatures are climbing up to the low seventies. So, of course, it's time for everyone to don a pair of short shorts and forget to wear their sunscreen. Not this year, lovelies! I won't allow it. I just read that almost 90% of aging is caused by sun damage. So instead of spending a fortune on anti-aging creams, you could basically HALT the aging process if you just applied ya damn sunscreen (or sunblock, as I tend to prefer). So you don't like sunscreen (or sunblock, you get the idea... and I'll explain the difference later)? I am about to tear all of your weak arguments to shreds and convert you to a better way of thinking. 

Ya heard me loud and clear, the sun is the biggest factor in extrinsic aging. The best, most effective anti-aging product by far is just plain old sunscreen. Now obviously, not all sunscreens are created equally. I hate most. They make my eyes itch, my face break out, and I hate that characteristic greasy feel and stinky sunscreen smell. But aside from all the things that make me naturally want to avoid sunscreen like the Black Plague, there is a big difference between an effective sunscreen and an ineffective one. SPF is a measurement of UVB rays, the burning rays. What's more important for anti-aging is the measurement of UVA rays (the aging rays, that break down collagen and create age spots). That is not easily measured, and largely ignored in the USA. 

Instead of trying to give you the complicated guidelines on how to choose a good sunscreen, I put together a list of AWESOME sunscreens (and blocks) for your shopping pleasure. And now for the big explanation of sunscreen vs. sunblock: sunblock is a physical barrier against the sun, reflecting the rays like a mirror. Sunscreen is a chemical, or blend of chemicals, that is absorbed into the skin and then works to scatter or absorb UV rays. I find that a good zinc oxide (non-nano) sunblock is the best way to go, but there are some excellent chemical formulas out there. 

Now it's time for me to bust up your sunscreen fear/hate.

Myth #1: Sunscreen makes me break out.
Argument: You just haven't found the one that works for you. I know it seems easier to just give up, but sunscreen is worth it. Who wants skin cancer or wrinkles? Try one of these SPFs for acne-prone skin.

Incredibly light and non-greasy, with a red algae extract that effectively calms skin inflamed skin. I love how light and airy this formula is. It's feather light and it doesn't leave a white cast on any skin tone.


This is a great option for acne prone skin as a daily moisturizer/SPF. It has never, ever caused breakouts in any of my clients. 
A long time favorite, Epicuren's Zinc Oxide is a great formula for all skin types, with a truly love-able texture. It works perfectly for dry skin as an over-moisturizer SPF, and for oily skin it's enough.

Myth #2: I need a moisturizer with sunscreen because I'm [lazy, in a hurry, busy, under the impression that anything less is as outdated as an 8-track player]. 
Argument: Sunscreen has an expiration date. It's a short one. It lasts mmmmaybe a few hours and then it's time to reapply. It's not like putting on a shirt, it's like putting on a disappearing shirt. It doesn't protect you all day. That is wishful thinking. But, as we now know that the sun is so profoundly responsible for the aging process, it's WORTH every moment of hassle that it takes to just reapply the darn stuff. Some of the ones I've mentioned above have a bit of moisture included, but that just means you have to keep some cleansing cloths handy and wipe your face down & then reapply a fresh layer every few hours. It's okay. Knowing is half the battle. And the battle is a sneaky one, where you wake up one day and all of the sudden you look old.

Dry of skin? The aforementioned sun protectors can be applied over the top of your favorite rich balm, and if you don't have a favorite rich balm then you really should try this, this, or this.

Myth #3: I'm too sensitive for sunscreen. It makes my eyes burn. 
Argument: Yes, maybe you are. But how do you know if you haven't tried ALL of them? A simple inside of the elbow patch test can help weed out actual allergies. I find that zinc sunblocks work very well for sensitive skin in general, but some of the chemical ones are a great fit. Probably best to avoid PABA and Octyl Methoxycinnamate. Everyone's skin is different. Here's one that my super sensitive, rosacea clients swear by. Also: don't put SPF too close to your eyes, or put down a barrier cream of some sort before applying SPF to the eye area if you're sensitive.

Now get out there and enjoy the sun while it lasts! Wear a wide brimmed hat and drink plenty of water. :)